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INFORMATION SECTION

HOW DO WE KNOW WHAT WE ARE BUYING IS REALLY NATURAL?
Adapted from Organic & Natural Living
by Narelle Chenery

As the number of people who are concerned about toxins in our environment grows, more and more skin care companies are jumping on the "natural" and "organic" bandwagon for cosmetics and also for personal and body care products.

But what does "natural" and "organic" mean when we see them on a mainstream manufacturers cosmetic or toiletries product label? How do we really know what we are buying is really natural and organic? How do we actually know if the products are safe and non-toxic?  What are the natural alternatives to synthetic and mostly toxic chemicals? Is natural and organic really any better for us? What products are truly natural and organic?

Our skin is the largest eliminatory organ in the body. It is a two-way membrane. Toxins are eliminated through the skin via perspiration and absorbed through the skin into the body’s circulation system, through hair follicles and sebaceous glands, but not through the sweat glands. One square inch of skin contains approximately 65 hairs, 100 sebaceous glands and 650 sweat glands. Every square inch of you skin is like a thousand open mouths, absorbing into the body most of what is put on it.

Skin care manufacturers are not supposed to claim that their products penetrate the skin. If they did, the products would then be labelled as “drugs” and would be governed by much stricter regulations. However, it is now recognised that the skin does absorb many ingredients in skin care preparations. This is both good and bad. Good, because it means our skin can be nourished from the outside with some wonderful ingredients. Bad, because some skin care manufacturers can use harmful ingredients that would never be allowed to be taken orally, but are still absorbed into our system, through our skin.  


What Does “Natural” and “Organic” Mean On Product Labels?
Nowhere does the idea of “natural” or “organic” take a more gratuitous bruising than in the skin/body care industry.

If we first take the word "natural" and look it up in the Concise Oxford Dictionary we would find this description of natural thus; “existing in, or caused by nature; not artificial; uncultivated; wild existing in natural state; not disguised or altered”.

It seems pretty clear what "natural" actually means to me! Does it to you? However when vested interests get hold of the word natural they put a whole new slant on it. It may seem pretty clear to you and me exactly what we mean by natural but for the marketing men they obviously haven't read the dictionary and start bending the interpretation of natural to suit themselves. 

Many labels have long lists of chemical names, some followed by the phrase “derived from …” (some natural substance). This is grossly misleading for consumers who are looking for genuine natural products.

When chemicals such as Cocamide DEA or Sodium Hydroxysultaine are followed by the words “derived from coconut oil” the consumer is led to believe that these synthetic chemicals must somehow be "natural". While this may be true in some cases where a natural oil or extract is actually used, it is ultimately irrelevant because what you end up with after the chemical solvent extraction and processing is usually anything but natural or pure. It is just another chemical concoction with some rather awful sounding long names to describe the process the "natural" product went through.

Now what about "organic"? 
Again if we look in the dictionary for the word organic it is pretty obvious to us what we expect to find as far as safe products in general are concerned. Would you say in the context you are expecting to use or find the term organic that this would be a fair description; "produced and involving production without the use of pesticides, artificial fertilizers or synthetic chemicals."

To me it seems rather elementary that when describing a product as organic that this is exactly what the customer would expect. However to the marketing men this is not what they mean by organic. Lets delve a little deeper into this play on words

To create Cocamide DEA, a foaming agent found in some shampoos, requires the addition of a synthetic chemical and known carcinogen, Diethanolamine – DEA, to the coconut oil. It is therefore no longer natural, or safe! If we look at the term “organic” on a label, we usually think it means “grown and cultivated without the use of chemicals” as stated above. That is the conclusion most skin care companies would like us to come to when they use the rather loose term organic.

Unscrupulous companies are cynically using the chemistry definition of “organic” –  which is also defined in the dictionary as "a compound that contains a carbon atom" to confuse consumers. This is known in the trade as confusion advertising so the real picture becomes blurred.

Carbon is found in everything that has ever lived. Vested interests by using this definition of organic, they are saying that a toxic petrochemical preservative called Methyl Paraben is “organic” because it was formed from leaves that rotted over thousands of years to become crude oil, which was then used to make this preservative. How absurd is this when consumers are looking for safe non-toxic products?

The play on the word organic gets even worse. An increasing number of companies are now claiming to use “organic” herbs in their products. But, what about the rest of the ingredients? Are they safe? Are they "natural" or from an "organic" source?  Surely there must be an authority that governs the use of the term “organic” on labels? 

The simple answer is NO!
However, the term “certified organic” IS governed by a number of internationally recognised bodies. In Australia the Biological Farmers of Australia (BFA) is the largest. Searching for products with the logo of a certifying body on the label is the only way you can guarantee the organic authenticity and integrity of every ingredient in the product. This can then truly be called a natural product. Without the "Certified Organic" label, the organic claim means nothing, as it cannot be verified and most likely it is a complete hoax perpetrated by the marketing men and their hype.


How Do We Know What We Are Buying Is Really “Natural” and “Organic"?
Fortunately, there is a very simple way to differentiate between the hype and truth in skin care and that is to read the ingredient list on the label. It is a legal requirement that all skin care products must be labelled with the ingredients in descending order of their quantity in the product.

A good rule of thumb is to divide the ingredient list into thirds: the top third usually contains 90-95% of the product, the middle third usually contains 5-8% and the bottom third, 1-3%.

Here is the ingredient list of a so-called “natural” and “organic” body moisturiser from a well- known “natural” skin care company.

APRICOT CREAM 'Natural' or 'Organic' ingredients include: 1. Water (deionised) 2. Isopropyl Palmitate (Palm Oil Derivative) 3. Apricot Kernel Oil 4. Bis-Digyceryl Caprylate/Caprate/Isosterate/Stearate/ Hydroxysterate                    Adipate (vegetable Triglyceride) 5. Glyceryl Stearate SE (vegetable derived) 6. Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (glycerin-derived emollient) 7. Ceteareth - 12 (Organic Emulsifier) 8. Tocopherol Oil (vitamin E) 9. Chamomile Extract 10. Sage Extract 11. Linden Extract (Lime Blossom Extract) 12. Balm Mint Extract 13. Shea Butter (From Karite) 14. Wheat Germ Oil 15. Carrot Oil 16. Cetyl Alcohol (organic Co-emulsifier) 17. Sodium Hydroxide (pH Adjuster) 18. Sorbic Acid (Organic Compound) 19. Tocopherol Acetate (vitamin E Derivative) 20. Methyl Paraben 21. Propyl Paraben 22. Imidazolidinyl Urea (Organic Compound) 23. Fragrance 24. FD & C Yellow No 5, D7C Red No. 33.       Content: Apricot oil (2.5%)

 

Take note of the last point that says "Content: Apricot Oil (2.5%). Notice Apricot Oil is No 3 on the list. Because skin care and cosmetic manufacturers are required to list the ingredients in descending order this means everything AFTER Apricot Oil makes up less than 2.5% of the volume.

This effectively means that about 90% of the product is water and Isopropyl Palmitate. Isopropyl Palmitate is derived from Isopropyl Alcohol, synthetic alcohol and Palmatic Acid, a fatty acid from palm oil. It is known to cause skin irritations and dermatitis and has been shown to have comedogenic (acne promoting) properties!

Nos 4, 5 and 6 are all produced by chemical reactions between various fatty acids and glycerol (synthetic glycerine). They are largely synthetic and have been shown to cause allergies and dermatitis!
No 7 is a synthetic emulsifier that may contain dangerous levels of ethylene oxide and dioxane - both are known carcinogens. 
Nos. 8 to 15 are natural ingredients used in tiny amounts merely to make the product look good. They may have been grown using toxic organo-phosphates, other pesticides and chemical herbicides.
No. 16 May be natural or synthetic and has been shown to cause contact dermatitis and eczema.
No. 17 Is otherwise known as caustic soda or lye - a powerful drain cleaner extremely alkaline and corrosive. A known sensitizer for many allergic people.
No. 18 Sorbic acid was once isolated from the Mountain Ash berry, but is now chemically synthesised and is a toxic preservative
No. 19 is synthetic Vitamin E. 
Nos. 20-22 are toxic and allergenic preservatives which have been linked to increasing oestrogen levels in women and is implicated in the rising incidence of breast cancer
No. 23. Probably synthetic, may contain phthalates that have been linked to birth defects.
No. 24. Synthetic colours that could be potentially carcinogenic.

Now let’s look at an ingredient list of a certified organic body moisturiser.
This ingredient list says: 

CERTIFIED ORGANIC BODY INTENSIVE 1. Organic Aloe Vera, 2. Organic Safflower oil, 3. Purified Water, 4. Organic Avocado oil, 5. Organic Shea butter, 6. Non-GMO Lecithin, 7. Organic Sugar-Cane Ethanol, 8. D-Panthenol (pro-vit b5), 9. Organic Olive juice extract, 10. Organic Grapefruit Seed extract, 11. Natural gum, 12. Organic vanilla extract

No. 1. from organic aloe vera plants with potent healing properties to regenerate the skin.
No. 2 is cold-pressed from organic safflower seeds, with emollient and skin softening properties.
No. 3. Purified Water.
No. 4 is cold-pressed from organic avocado fruit, very nourishing for dry skin.
No. 5 is from organic shea nut beans, fantastic at preventing stretchmarks and contains a natural sunscreen.
No. 6 is from non-genetically modified soybean oil, a natural moisturising factor contained in healthy skin.
No. 7 is from organic sugar, helps emulsify the oils, butters and aloe together.
No. 8 is a precursor to vitamin B5, healing and moisturising.
No. 9 is from olive juice, a natural antioxidant that protects the skin from UV damage.
No. 10 is from grapefruit seeds, a natural antibacterial.
No. 11 is a natural gum to soften the skin and thicken the product.
No. 12 is from organic vanilla beans and smells divine.

What Are The Natural Alterntaives To Chemicals?
All skin care products, both synthetic and natural, contain items from the following categories in some combination or other:

Emollients
Emollients serve two functions; they prevent dryness and protect the skin, acting as a barrier and healing agent. Water is the best emollient, but because it evaporates quickly it is ineffective. It needs to be held on the skin by emollient oils in what is called an emulsion. Synthetic emollients are occlusive i.e. they coat the skin and do not allow it to respire (much like plastic wrap), which can cause skin irritation. Some synthetic emollients can accumulate in the liver and lymph nodes. They are also non-biodegradable, causing a negative environmental impact.

Natural emollients actually nourish the skin. They are metabolised by the skin’s own enzymes and absorbed into it. They are readily biodegradable and are of edible quality. 

Some Synthetic Emollients: PEG compounds (eg PEG- 45 Almond Glyceride) may contain the toxic by-product dioxane Synthetic alcohols (anything that contains the phrase benzyl –, butyl-, cetearyl-, cetyl -, glyceryl-, isopropyl-, myristyl propyl-, propylene-, or stearyl-) eg Isopropyl Palmitate, Diglyceryl Caprylate) have been shown to cause allergies and dermatitis. Hydrocarbons (eg mineral oil, petrolatum, paraffin) contain carcinogenic and mutagenic Polycyclic Aromatic Hydrocarbons (PAHs) and can cause chemically induced acne. Silicone Oils (eg dimethicone, cyclomethicone, copolyol) can clog the skin like plastic wrap and cause tumours when painted on lab animals (according to the Material Safety Data Sheet supplied by the manufacturer).    Some Natural Emollients: Plant Oils (eg. Jojoba, Avocado, Rosehip) Shea, Cocoa and Jojoba Butters

Humectants
The main purpose of any cream is to keep the skin moist. Many conventional creams form a suffocating film on the skin to prevent moisture loss. Even a natural humectant, glycerin, actually attracts water from the air and surrounding tissue. It keeps the skin moist as long as there is sufficient moisture in the air. In a dry climate it actually draws moisture from the skin.

Collagen, elastin and keratin enjoy some popularity as humectants. Whilst they are compatible with the skin and deposit a protective film, they are usually sourced from animals and therefore cannot be termed “cruelty free”. Some skin care companies would like you to believe that your skin can use special animal proteins to rejuvenate and replace aging cells. This is nonsense! The size of the molecules, even when broken down (hydrolysed), are far too large to penetrate the skin. Even if they could get in, they would be immediately rejected as foreign matter and attacked by the immune system.

Natural phospholipids, from lecithin, are fantastic humectants. An important benefit of phospholipids is that they are hygroscopic (attract water from the surrounding air) and hold water where an increased level of hydration is needed. Therefore, phospholipids increase the hydration levels of the skin without being occlusive (forming a film to prevent water loss, and preventing normal cellular function).

A recent study proved the value of topically applied phospholipids in skin care. It found that environmental factors (sun, wind, pollution) and the detergents and solvents, found in most skin cleansers, actually stripped the natural phospholipid content from the top layer of skin. This loss resulted in a rough feel and a pitted appearance under a microscope. Importantly, the phospholipids in the uppermost skin layers cannot be replaced by natural cell function, as the top layer of cells no longer metabolise; they serve only as a protective barrier.
Remarkably, the study showed that topically applied plant phospholipids restore the barrier function of the skin, protecting it from substances such as bacteria and harmful chemicals.
 

Some Synthetic Humectants: 1. Propylene Glycol – causes irritation and contact dermatitis 2. Ethylene/Diethylene Glycol – causes irritation and contact dermatitis 3. PEG compounds (eg Polyethylene Glycol) – may contain the toxic by-product dioxane Some Natural Humectants: 1. Lecithin 2. Panthenol (pro-vitamin B5) 3. Glycerin

Emulsifiers
Emulsifiers hold two ingredients together that normally don't mix. This can be either a physical substance (like a wax) or a physical action (shake well before use).

Synthetic emulsifiers are usually petroleum/hydrocarbon derivatives and can be allergens.
Natural emulsifiers are obtained from various nuts, berries and leaves.

Synthetic Emulsifiers: 1. Alkoxylated Amides (eg TEA, DEA, MEA MIPA compounds) can undergo nitrosation to form nitrosamines which are known carcinogens. 2. PEG compounds - may contain the toxic substance dioxane 3. Sorbitan Sterate, Laurate, Palmitate, Oleate etc. 4. Ozokerite, Ceresin, Silicone and Montan Waxes 5. Isopropyl Stearate, Laurate, Palmitate, Oleate etc. Some Natural Emulsifiers: 1. Plant waxes (eg Candelilla, Carnuba, Jojoba, Rice Bran) 2. Xanthum Gum 3. Quince Seed

Surfactants
Surface-active-agents are substances capable of dissolving oils and holding dirt in suspension so it can be rinsed away with water. They are used in skin cleansers and shampoos.

A serious problem with ethoxylated surfactants (those that utilise ethylene or propylene oxide in the chemical reaction) is that they often contaminated with dioxane, a potent carcinogen. The exact same toxic carcinogen sprayed on the Vietnam jungle during Agent Orange which caused hundreds of thousands of birth defects and cancers in Vietnamese civilians and huge increases in the cancer rates for US and Australian army personnel.

These surfactants are listed on labels as ingredients ending with -eth, (like laureth) or containing the phrase PEG (Poly Ethylene Glycol), or PPG (Poly Propylene Glycol).

Another dangerous class of surfactants are amides. These are listed on labels containing the term TEA - TriEthanolAmine, DEA - DiEthanolAmine and MEA MonoEthanolAmine. All compounds containing TEA, DEA, and MEA can undergo nitrosation with other chemicals to form nitrosamines, which are carcinogenic. One study found that over 40% of products containing triethanolamine (TEA) were contaminated with these potent carcinogens.

Natural saponins (foaming agents) are a much better choice for shampoos. They gently cleanse the hair and scalp without stripping the natural oils.

Some Synthetic Surfactants: 1. Sodium or Ammonium Lauryl or Laureth Sulphate 2. Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate 3. Sodium Lauroyl or Cocoyl Sarcosinate 4. Cocomidopropyl Betaine 5. TEA compounds 6. DEA compounds 7. PEG (Polyethylene Glycol) compounds 8. Quarternium -7,15,31,60 etc 9. Lauryl or Cocoyl Sarcosine 10. Disodium Oleamide or Dioctyl Sulfosuccinate etc. Some Natural Surfactants: 1. Castile Soap 2. Yucca Extract 3. Soapwort 4. Quillaja Bark Extract

Preservatives
The decaying process is natural and happens with or without preservatives. Skin care products do
not (and should not) last for ever. Just like food, all natural skin care products will eventually deteriorate and go rancid. The effectiveness, not safety, of synthetic chemical preservatives has
only been “proven” by animal testing. Chemical preservatives are generally used because they are
much cheaper than, and extend the shelf life of the product more than natural alternatives.

Storing natural products in the fridge will help extend their life. 

Some Synthetic Preservatives: 1. Imidiazolidinyl Urea (Germall 115) and Diazolidinyl Urea (Germall II) Causes contact dermatitis. Germall 115 releases formaldehyde over 10°C. 2. DMDM Hydantoin Highly toxic, causes contact dermatitis, contains formaldehyde. Used in shampoos and deodorants. 3. Methyl, Propyl, Butyl and Ethyl Paraben Toxic, Causes allergic reactions and skin rashes. Used in a huge range of products and is implicated in increasing breast cancer rates when used as a preservative in underarm deodorants. 4. 2-Bromo-2-Nitro-Propane-1, 3-diol. (Bronopol). Toxic - causes allergic contact dermatitis. Used in face creams, shampoos, mascaras and bath oils. 5. Benzalkonium Chloride - Highly toxic, primary skin irritant. Used in shampoos, conditioner and deodorants. 6. Quarternium-15 Toxic, causes skin rashes and allergic reactions 7. Chloromethylisothiazolinone and Isothiazolinone - Cause contact dermatitis 8. Methylisothiazolinone and Methylchloroisothiazolinone- Both cause allergies 9. Butylated Hydroxytoluene (BHT) and Butylated Hydroxyanisole (BHA) - Both cause allergic contact dermatitis - worse BHT is carcinogenic!  Some Natural Preservatives: 1. Tea Tree essential oil 2. Thyme essential oil 3. Grapefruit Seed Extract 4. D-Alpha Tocopherol Acetate (Vitamin E)

 

Is "Natural" Really Better?
Well you make your own mind up! There are some people who really do think that there are "safe" synthetic chemicals which can be applied to the skin and eaten in food without doing any harm. However didn't the cigarette manufacturers maintain for over thirty years that the chemicals in smoke never caused cancer too? It is easy to bury your head in the sand and ignore these dangers as we listen to the hollow platitudes of vested interests who are making billions from a gullible public.

If we look at chemicals from a historic point of view we see a pattern of wonderful chemical and drug breakthroughs which are going to change life for the better. They are sold to us on a platform of hype and false promises as the answer to all sorts of problems. Subsequent disastrous side effects and countless deaths have been caused by some of these new wonder chemicals and drugs before they were pulled off the market and banned long after the damage had already been done. 

Remember the miracle of DDT? How this was going to revolutionise farming in the world and destroy all insect pests. Now every single living creature on earth today, humans included, carry a burden of DDT stored in their fat cells with who knows what consequences for generations to come.

What about thalidomide? Remember the miracle drug to ease women through the "sickness" of bearing a child. How many tens of thousands of children were born with defects from this incredible chemical folly? How would you feel if by your uninformed use of toxic chemicals caused ongoing medical problems for your loved ones in the future?

The search for newer, better and safer synthetic chemicals goes on and on with new chemicals being released at a staggering rate onto the market and the unsuspecting public. When you really think about it, the entire process is so futile and foolish and is only being pursued in the name of corporate profit. Mother Nature has always had the answers for us yet man seems hell-bent on ignoring the most basic rule of all and that is to live in harmony with nature not try to control it.

We should all avoid toxic synthetic chemicals from all sources. We can do this largely by sourcing organic produce as much as we possibly can and using only certified organic personal care products and cosmetics. You may be amazed at the huge difference these simple measures will make to your health.

Informed people make informed choices!

TO FIND OUT WHERE TO BUY CERTIFIED ORGANIC PRODUCTS VISIT:  http://www.freeworld.mionegroup.com

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THE FOOD GUIDE

Why Should You Care About Pesticides?
There is growing consensus in the scientific community that small doses of pesticides and other chemicals can adversely affect people, especially during vulnerable periods of fetal development and childhood when exposures can have long lasting effects. Because the toxic effects of pesticides are worrisome, not well understood, or in some cases completely unstudied, shoppers are wise to minimize exposure to pesticides whenever possible.

Will Washing and Peeling Help?
Nearly all of the data used to create these lists already considers how people typically wash and prepare produce (for example, apples are washed before testing, bananas are peeled). While washing and rinsing fresh produce may reduce levels of some pesticides, it does not eliminate them. Peeling also reduces exposures, but valuable nutrients often go down the drain with the peel. The best option is to eat a varied diet, wash all produce, and choose organic when possible to reduce exposure to potentially harmful chemicals.

How This Guide Was Developed:
The produce ranking was developed by analysts at the not-for-profit Environmental Working Group (EWG) based on the results of nearly 43,000 tests for pesticides on produce collected by the U.S. Department of Agriculture and the U.S. Food and Drug Administration between 2000 and 2004. A detailed description of the criteria used in developing the rankings is available as well as a full list of fresh fruits and vegetables that have been tested (see below).

THE FOOD GUIDE FULL LIST: 43 Fruits & Veggies

RANK	FRUIT OR VEGGIE	SCORE
1	Peaches	100 (highest pesticide load)
2	Apples	89
3	Sweet Bell Peppers	86
4	Celery	85
5	Nectarines	84
6	Strawberries	82
7	Cherries	75
8	Pears	65
9	Grapes - Imported	65
10	Spinach	60
11	Lettuce	59
12	Potatoes	58
13	Carrots	57
14	Green Beans	53
15	Hot Peppers	53
16	Cucumbers	52
17	Raspberries	47
18	Plums	45
19	Grapes - Domestic	43
20	Oranges	42
21	Grapefruit	40
22	Tangerine	38
23	Mushrooms	37
24	Cantaloupe	34
25	Honeydew Melon	31
26	Tomatoes	30
27	Sweet Potatoes	30
28	Watermelon	28
29	Winter Squash	27
30	Cauliflower	27
31	Blueberries	24
32	Papaya	21
33	Broccoli	18
34	Cabbage	17
35	Bananas	16
36	Kiwi	14
37	Sweet peas - frozen	11
38	Asparagus	11
39	Mango	9
40	Pineapples	7
41	Sweet Corn - frozen	2
42	Avocado	1
43 (best)	Onions	1 (lowest pesticide load)

Note: We ranked a total of 43 different fruits and vegetables but grapes are listed twice because we looked at both domestic and imported samples.

EWG is a not-for-profit environmental research organization dedicated to improving public health and protecting the environment by reducing pollution in air, water and food. For more information please visit www.ewg.org.